buy a used Doughboy pool..

by Phil
(SoCal)

showing deep end.

I'm about to maybe buy a used 2 year old large (18X38) Doughboy pool with deck, pump, filter and all the accessories. Main problem with this I see is that it's sat drained/empty for about 4 weeks, with it being full of dirt and the deep end has some green/algae water in it. If I get this I'll probably not use the deep end feature though.

The owners have never cut the liner for size or anything so much of it all the way around overhangs the outside walls at least about 3 feet. So there's plenty of "room" on the liner in case any shrinkage may have occurred. I have more pics too if needed, and in the above one all that gray bit is solid DIRT and I think alkaline, etc.

I'm wondering if this liner is salvageable and/or what's the best way to clean all the dirt and muck without damaging the liner? Local Doughboy dealer says NO acid, but says he has a cleaning solution we could use, etc.

thanks
Phil

Hi Phil, A plain blue flat bottom 20 gauge liner would be so inexpensive to purchase. The cheapest liner you could find would be a big improvement over trying to use the old one. For a little more money you could buy a Doughboy, 20 mil UD liner. Then you would have, what I consider, is the best liner made. One that will last you ten years or better.

You will never be able to clean the liner to the point where it looks decent. The area that has been stretched into the deep area will shrink and wrinkle like crazy. You will very likely have a very wrinkly, dirty mess.

If you are able to clean it and want to reuse it I would recommend gluing large patches over the skimmer and return openings. This would allow you to stretch the liner into place and possibly keep the wrinkles to a minimum.

In my opinion the garbage can is the best place for that liner. A new one will make the whole job so much easier and you will get it done a lot quicker.

Recommended pages related to buying a used Doughboy pool.

Used Above Ground Pools

Above Ground Pool Parts

Overlap Liners

Above Ground Pool Liner Installation

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buy a used Doughboy pool..

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Sep 14, 2008
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Mokay...
by: Anonymous

Ok....original problem is that a Doughboy dealer is telling me $1200 for a new liner...DOH!! I DID though see some on here for less than half of that but wasn't sure,etc. How much usually is the new liner you're talking about?

I was also wanting to change the location of the opening of the filter to the other lateral side of the pool. I'm thinking I could skootch over the metal wall, but yeah would have to patch the old location in the liner and cut a new hole once the liner got set? For a new liner do I just put in the size at 18 X 38, or need I go bigger? I measured this pool and it's a firm 18 X 38.

Another subject is I have nice/soft grass (no weeds) to put this on. Owners were suggesting the sand route isn't needed out here plus the liner tends to shift around on it. They have a foam rubber pad on the bottom of this one and walking around on it yesterday there are no wrinkles I could see. There ARE though gopher holes under it at their location but for MY situation I am gopher free. (bang on wood)

Thanks again for your help. Maybe I can get the rest of the pool for a little cheaper...dunno. The owners though paid like $7400 for it new.

Hi, Changing the filter location is not a problem. The walls have to be taken down, you will just reinstall them with the opening in a new location. The only thing to keep in mind is that the wall connections should be placed behind an end upright.

Your grass will have to be removed in order to properly level the ground. I prefer a sand base because I get the best results that way, and no, the liner does not shift on sand. Styrofoam works good also for a base.

I found a liner
here from Amerimerc for 401.00 with free shipping. I would go with the exact size you need, not any bigger.

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Sep 14, 2008
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Submitted by: Anonymous

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Ok....original problem is that a Doughboy dealer is telling me $1200 for a new liner...DOH!! I DID though see some on here for less than half of that but wasn't sure,etc. How much usually is the new liner you're talking about? I was also wanting to change the location of the opening of the filter to the other lateral side of the pool. I'm thinking I could skootch over the metal wall, but yeah would have to patch the old location in the liner and cut a new hole once the liner got set? For a new liner do I just put in the size at 18 X 38, or need I go bigger? I measured this pool and it's a firm 18 X 38. Another subject is I have nice/soft grass (no weeds) to put this on. Owners were suggesting the sand route isn't needed out here plus the liner tends to shift around on it. They have a foam rubber pad on the bottom of this one and walking around on it yesterday there are no wrinkles I could see. There ARE though gopher holes under it at their location but for MY situation I am gopher free. (bang on wood) Thanks again for your help. Maybe I can get the rest of the pool for a little cheaper...dunno. The owners though paid like $7400 for it new. Hi, Changing the filter location is not a problem. The walls have to be taken down, you will just reinstall them with the opening in a new location. The only thing to keep in mind is that the wall connections should be placed behind an end upright. Your grass will have to be removed in order to properly level the ground. I prefer a sand base because I get the best results that way, and no, the liner does not shift on sand. Styrofoam works good also for a base. I found a liner <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=258100&b=88730&m=13458&afftrack=&urllink=www%2Eamerimerc%2Ecom%2Fabove%2Dground%2Dpool%2Dliner%2Ehtm"> here</a> from Amerimerc for 401.00 with free shipping. I would go with the exact size you need, not any bigger.

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Sep 14, 2008
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Secard pool
by: Phil

Ok.....just found out it's not a Doughboy but a Secard. I was just in touch with the guy who sold the owners this pool and he has a 20ml plain blue liner for $348 approx. so I'm going to go that route. Says the coping should be fine on this and his gasket kits are around $12.48 or something. He also agrees about the bottom and says I have to get a sod scraper to lift the grass up and out where the bottom is to be. He did say he thought plain sand tho was a bit too abrasive and if a ladder where to be placed into the bottom it'd wear a hole.....or something.

Owners were nice and since I'm getting a new liner knocked the price down $300, plus they're still helping with the tear down and reset,etc.

Sep 28, 2008
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Buttresses..
by: Phil

Ok...I went ahead and got the used Secard steel sided 38'x18' pool. What a job getting all the framing out. It has 4 buttresses on each side with under strapping connecting them across the pool. Half of them have a cross metal piece that holds it up and was buried originally. Is there a specific depth I'm supposed to set these things at? And/or am I to dig trenches for these buttresses in addition to the sod tool scooping out the grass,etc? I'm not going to have a deep end but this pool had extra heavy weight braces buried in the ground under the sidewalls along the deep end. I was planning on just getting some more strapping to complete the 4 buttress set since I'm just going to have a plain flat bottom pool,etc. Do you have any pics on here of putting up a system like this? I see the oval pool article but those columns are a bit different to these.

thanks,
Phil

Hi Phil, hopefully these photos will help. The brace assembly does need to be set in a trench. The depth is determined by where the bottom rail attaches to the post. The bottom of the bottom rail needs to sit at your level grade. The bottom rails need to be at the same level on the sides and the ends.

When oval pools are set up for deep ends a large block is used to set the brace assembly on. The first photo shows a Doughboy brace system with an 8x8x16 block under it. This type of support allows the pool to be set up without straps going from side to side. The second photo shows a brace assembly with straps. You still need a trench and you still need a block under it. The block can just be a standard patio block. The block will keep the side supports from leaning out when the water puts pressure on them.

The third photo shows the how the assembly should look when you are finished. Notice the bottom rails are resting on firm, level ground. The second two photos show a pool that has an outside post cap that gets put on later. The finished pool will have side uprights that match the end uprights.

Hope this helps.

block under pool support

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Sep 28, 2008
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Submitted by: Phil

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Ok...I went ahead and got the used Secard steel sided 38'x18' pool. What a job getting all the framing out. It has 4 buttresses on each side with under strapping connecting them across the pool. Half of them have a cross metal piece that holds it up and was buried originally. Is there a specific depth I'm supposed to set these things at? And/or am I to dig trenches for these buttresses in addition to the sod tool scooping out the grass,etc? I'm not going to have a deep end but this pool had extra heavy weight braces buried in the ground under the sidewalls along the deep end. I was planning on just getting some more strapping to complete the 4 buttress set since I'm just going to have a plain flat bottom pool,etc. Do you have any pics on here of putting up a system like this? I see the oval pool article but those columns are a bit different to these. thanks, Phil Hi Phil, hopefully these photos will help. The brace assembly does need to be set in a trench. The depth is determined by where the bottom rail attaches to the post. The bottom of the bottom rail needs to sit at your level grade. The bottom rails need to be at the same level on the sides and the ends. When oval pools are set up for deep ends a large block is used to set the brace assembly on. The first photo shows a Doughboy brace system with an 8x8x16 block under it. This type of support allows the pool to be set up without straps going from side to side. The second photo shows a brace assembly with straps. You still need a trench and you still need a block under it. The block can just be a standard patio block. The block will keep the side supports from leaning out when the water puts pressure on them. The third photo shows the how the assembly should look when you are finished. Notice the bottom rails are resting on firm, level ground. The second two photos show a pool that has an outside post cap that gets put on later. The finished pool will have side uprights that match the end uprights. Hope this helps. <img src="http://www.shadebuilder.com/images/pool-support-block.jpg" alt="block under pool support" width="300" height="208"> <img src="http://www.shadebuilder.com/images/brace-2.jpg" alt="pool side support" width="320" height="438"> <img src="http://www.shadebuilder.com/images/brace-1.jpg" alt="oval pool supports" width="350" height="225">

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Oct 02, 2008
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It's up but more work,heh.
by: Phil

Thanks for the help on the braces. Actually....here's a pic of mine. I hired a young guy out of Hesperia who with a buddy put the pool up in 2 days. Lots of work now "around" the pool now. He left about a 2' perimeter so I think I may go with some kind of gravel or decorative rock for that. Have to fix/repair busted sprinkler lines here/there and now I have a TON of sod/grass that was cut out for the pool. Will be using some for patching the front yard but still will have a ton leftover,heh.

Oct 03, 2008
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pics..
by: Phil

Ooopsss.......couldn't figure out how to insert a pic here,heh.

Send them to me Phil, I would love to see them and add them here as well.

Apr 19, 2009
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Buried buttresses..
by: Phil

Ok....have had the pool up for a few months now and covered for winter,etc. Of course this pool is a Secard and NOT a Doughboy,etc. I just had some help today patching a tiny pinhole leak which I had to do with an underwater patch kit. That taken care of I'm now told the buttresses are not buried deep enough. The strappings on the inside of the pool at the buttresses are sticking out into the pool. Straps going accross underneath are buried ok, but the ends aren't. I think they're buried in the sand but again they're raised and into the liner. Is this going to be a problem, or do I need to hire someone again to totally redo the liner and pool install. Wondering too if I'd have any legal recourse to the outfit who put up the pool in the first place,etc. Dunno....

Hi. This does not sound good. Metal pool parts can not come into contact with a pool liner. There is a slight chance the repair could be easy. Not likely, just possible.

If the inside has raised up then the outside has to have sunk. Check the level on the brace uprights and reset the rear blocks if necessary. If the outside of the braces settled, the portion inside the pool will usually rise up and raising the block should lower in into position. It might then be possible to repack some sand around them working through the liner, without taking it our. Or by possibly pulling the liner back just enough to get the sand back in place. Either case requires removing the water down to about an inch or so.

More than likely the liner will need to be removed and all the braces reset correctly. An installer could probably advise you better as to what they would do, or I could advise better with photos to look at.

If your last installers were hired as professional pool installers then they should stand behind their work. You should also have legal recourse if they do not, it is definitely an installation issue that is causing your problems.

If your installers were hired as handy men, working under your direction there is not much you could or should do.

Shop the Clearance Section at In The Swim!

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Apr 19, 2009
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Submitted by: Phil

Title

Comment
Ok....have had the pool up for a few months now and covered for winter,etc. Of course this pool is a Secard and NOT a Doughboy,etc. I just had some help today patching a tiny pinhole leak which I had to do with an underwater patch kit. That taken care of I'm now told the buttresses are not buried deep enough. The strappings on the inside of the pool at the buttresses are sticking out into the pool. Straps going accross underneath are buried ok, but the ends aren't. I think they're buried in the sand but again they're raised and into the liner. Is this going to be a problem, or do I need to hire someone again to totally redo the liner and pool install. Wondering too if I'd have any legal recourse to the outfit who put up the pool in the first place,etc. Dunno.... Hi. This does not sound good. Metal pool parts can not come into contact with a pool liner. There is a slight chance the repair could be easy. Not likely, just possible. If the inside has raised up then the outside has to have sunk. Check the level on the brace uprights and reset the rear blocks if necessary. If the outside of the braces settled, the portion inside the pool will usually rise up and raising the block should lower in into position. It might then be possible to repack some sand around them working through the liner, without taking it our. Or by possibly pulling the liner back just enough to get the sand back in place. Either case requires removing the water down to about an inch or so. More than likely the liner will need to be removed and all the braces reset correctly. An installer could probably advise you better as to what they would do, or I could advise better with photos to look at. If your last installers were hired as professional pool installers then they should stand behind their work. You should also have legal recourse if they do not, it is definitely an installation issue that is causing your problems. If your installers were hired as handy men, working under your direction there is not much you could or should do. <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=56656&u=258100&m=9806&urllink=&afftrack=">Shop the Clearance Section at In The Swim!</a>

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Jul 06, 2009
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18X38 Doughboy
by: Tim

Hi there

Where would I get a manual to install my 18X38 Doughboy. After reading this forum, I think I will order a new liner, the old one is dirty and I have to pay to have water brought in. what a great forum ..THANKS

Hi, you are very welcome, I?m glad you find it helpful. The doughboy-pools.com site has PDF instruction files for all of their pools, that should be very helpful to you. This page might be helpful also.

Oval
Installation

The page shows a different type of brace system but the overall steps are the same. The next page shows the type of buttress you probably have and how it is installed.

Above
Ground Pool Directions

This page shows a Doughboy pool getting a new liner installed.

Expandable Liner Installation