Inner stabilizer rail on above ground pool

by Don
(Central IL.)

I am in the process of installing an 18 x 33 Sharkline pool and have discovered a couple of issues with the install.
The top inner stabilizer rails that go on the top of the curved sides of the pool wall have one end crimped so that it telescopes into the next piece. But as you put these stabilizer rails over a coping beaded receiver, where the rail is crimped it no longer will lay as flat as the non crimped portion of the rail. This happens to be directly over the curved side top cap. So now you install the curved side top cap and it won't sit flat and you can't get all three of the screws in. If you were to look at the rail where it is crimped, it looks like a "M". I took a grinder and cut/ground out the "V" portion (about 2 inches) of the "M" and now it lays flatter. By grinding out that portion, did I just compromise the integrity of the inner stabilizer rail?
2nd. question: All of the curved side uprights are level left to right, but are slightly off of plumb from the front of the upright. All of them are leaning out! All of the 8x16 concrete blocks underneath them were level left to right and front to back when I set them. When the pool fills, will these uprights become plumb again because of the pressure of the water, or do I have a concern here? When I set the blocks it took two days to set 14 blocks level with a transit and level across them. I used crushed limestone for a leveling base and was sure before the wall went up that they were level.
One last question. I scratched the pool wall on the inside and on the outside. The outside has a pattern on it. What can I use to seal the scratches?
Thanks so much.

Don W.



Hi Don, the stabilizer rods on that pool have always been a pain, especially on the oval models. What you did will in no way compromise the integrity of the pool. My method is to put my knee into the sidewall while I am installing the side screws. This causes the wall to bow inward and the cap will lower into place allowing the holes to line up. When the screws are in I just smack the wall from the inside and it pops back into place.

My suggestion about the uprights would be this. Completely assemble the pool without the liner and water. With the pool completely assembled you have a very good idea what it will look like full. With an oval pool you might get by with the braces leaning inward just slightly. The water pressure might push them out so that they look straight. You would never want to start filling a pool if the sides are leaning out. They could push out farther and cause real problems.

I would strongly recommend raising each block or using shims over the blocks. Working on an empty pool is much easier than one full of water. Completely assembling the pool without the liner gives you a very good look at how the pool will look full of water. Take all of the time needed at this stage to make everything straight and properly aligned.

Fingernail polish, spray paint or even silicone are all good ways to treat scratches. The pool walls are treated to prevent rust and when that is damaged it is a real good idea to reseal it with something.